3.5: The Eight Steps to Squaring Lumber

3.5 The Eight Steps to Squaring Lumber

A woodworking project depends on accurate parts.

Before joinery can fit properly, a board must usually have:

• two flat, parallel faces;
• two straight, parallel edges;
• two square ends; and
• the correct thickness, width, and length.

In WMT 101, this is taught as the Eight Steps to Squaring Lumber.

The order matters.

Each operation establishes a reference for the next one.

Learning Outcomes

After completing this section, you should be able to:

• List the eight steps used to square lumber.
• Match each step with the appropriate machine.
• Explain why the operations occur in this order.
• Identify the reference surfaces created during milling.
• Explain why stock remains oversized until later in the process.

The Basic Idea

You are converting a rough and imperfect board into a rectangular part with controlled dimensions.

Think of the sequence this way:

Length roughly → Face → Thickness → Edge → Width → Edge → End → Length

Or more simply:

Establish references first. Final dimensions come later.

Step 1 — Rough-Cut to Length + 1 Inch

Machine: Radial Arm Saw

Cut the blank approximately 1 inch longer than the final required length.

This:

• makes the board easier to handle;
• can reduce the effects of warp;
• removes unusable material near the ends; and
• leaves extra length so the ends can be squared later.

Do not cut to final length yet.

Step 2 — Flatten One Face

Machine: Jointer

Place the most stable side down.

Joint one face until it becomes flat.

This face becomes your first major reference surface.

Do not worry about final thickness yet.

Step 3 — Plane to Desired Thickness

Machine: Planer

Place the jointed face down against the planer table.

Plane the opposite face until:

• it is parallel to the first face; and
• the board reaches the required thickness.

You now have two flat, parallel faces.

Step 4 — Straighten One Edge

Machine: Jointer

Place a flat face against the jointer fence.

Joint one edge straight and square to the face.

You now have:

• a flat reference face; and
• a straight reference edge.

These surfaces are used to guide the stock accurately during later operations.

Step 5 — Rip to Width + 1/32 Inch

Machine: Table Saw

Use the straight jointed edge against the rip fence.

Rip the board approximately 1/32 inch wider than its final required width.

The extra 1/32 inch leaves a small amount of material for the final edge-jointing operation.

The table saw is covered in detail later in this resource.

Step 6 — Smooth the Ripped Edge

Machine: Jointer

Return to the jointer and make a light cut on the sawn edge.

Remove the saw marks and bring the board to its final width.

The two edges should now be:

• straight;
• parallel; and
• square to the faces.

Step 7 — Square One End

Machine: Miter Saw or Table Saw with Crosscut Sled

Square one end of the board.

This creates the reference end from which final length is measured.

Do not simply measure from the original rough end. That end may not be square.

Step 8 — Square the Other End to Final Length

Machine: Miter Saw or Table Saw with Crosscut Sled

Measure from the newly squared reference end.

Cut the opposite end square at the required finished length.

The board should now be:

• flat;
• straight;
• square; and
• dimensioned to finished thickness, width, and length.

Quick Reference

Eight-step chart showing the standard sequence for milling rough lumber

Step	Process	Machine
1	Rough-cut to length + 1 in.	Radial arm saw
2	Flatten one face	Jointer
3	Plane to desired thickness	Planer
4	Straighten one edge	Jointer
5	Rip to width + 1/32 in.	Table saw
6	Smooth ripped edge to final width	Jointer
7	Square one end	Miter saw or table saw with sled
8	Square second end to final length	Miter saw or table saw with sled

Why the Order Matters

The machines do not all perform the same job.

For example:

• The planer needs a flat face before it can create a parallel face.
• The table saw needs a straight edge before the rip fence can accurately guide the board.
• Final length should not be established until a square reference end exists.

If the reference surfaces are wrong, later measurements and cuts will also be wrong.

Accuracy compounds.

So do errors.

Mark Your Reference Surfaces

As you mill lumber, it can be helpful to mark the first completed face and edge.

A common practice is to identify:

• the reference face; and
• the reference edge.

These marks remind you which surfaces should contact fences, tables, or other reference surfaces during later operations.

Your instructor may demonstrate a specific marking system.

Milling Several Matching Parts

When several parts must finish at the same thickness or width, machine them together whenever practical.

For example, if four pieces must all finish at 3/4 inch thick:

1. prepare all four pieces through face jointing;
2. plane them together through the same thickness settings; and
3. stop when all pieces reach the required dimension.

This improves consistency and reduces unnecessary machine adjustments.

Advanced Practice: Two-Stage Milling

The standard eight-step process works well for many introductory projects.

For furniture parts requiring greater precision, or for lumber that may move substantially after initial milling, woodworkers may use a two-stage milling process.

The idea is to:

1. rough-mill the stock slightly oversized;
2. allow the wood to rest; and
3. mill it again to final dimensions.

One possible sequence is:

1. Remove checked ends.
2. Rough-rip badly warped stock when necessary.
3. Rough-cut to length + 1 inch.
4. Flatten one face.
5. Plane slightly thicker than the final dimension.
6. Straighten one edge.
7. Rip slightly wider than the final dimension.
8. Sticker the stock and allow it to rest.
9. Reflatten the best face if needed.
10. Plane to final thickness.
11. Rejoint one edge if needed.
12. Rip to width + 1/32 inch.
13. Joint to final width.
14. Square one end.
15. Cut the opposite end to final length.

This approach gives the wood an opportunity to release internal stress and change shape before final dimensions are established.

You do not need to use this process for every introductory project, but it is an important professional milling concept.

Store Milled Lumber Properly

Freshly milled lumber should not be left lying directly on a bench or stacked unevenly for long periods.

When storing lumber for more than a short time, sticker it so air can circulate evenly around the pieces. Stickering means stacking boards with small, evenly spaced strips of wood between each layer. Align the stickers vertically so the stack stays supported and flat.

Good storage helps reduce unwanted changes before the parts are assembled.

Check Yourself

1. Why is the stock left approximately 1 inch long in Step 1?
2. Which machine establishes the first flat reference face?
3. Why does the planer come after the jointer?
4. What two reference surfaces should exist before ripping on the table saw?
5. Why is the board ripped approximately 1/32 inch oversize?
6. Why is one end squared before the board is cut to final length?
7. What is the purpose of two-stage milling?
8. Why should milled lumber be stickered when stored?