6.5: Completing the Picture Frame

6.5 Completing the Picture Frame

The picture frame project combines accurate milling, table-saw work, half-lap joinery, glue-up, routing, chisel work, sanding, and finishing.

Unlike the cutting board, the dimensions are not fixed.

The frame should be designed around what you intend to frame.

Learning Outcomes

After completing this project, you should be able to:

• Size frame parts to fit a specific piece of artwork or photograph.
• Prepare frame stock within the project limits.
• Construct four half-lap corner joints.
• Glue the frame square and flat.
• Rout a rear rabbet for glass or acrylic, artwork, and backing.
• Square routed rabbet corners with a chisel.
• Apply an optional routed edge profile.
• Sand through 320 grit.
• Apply an appropriate finish and hanging hardware.

Project Requirements

Your picture frame should:

• Be sized appropriately for the artwork, photograph, or object being framed.
• Use solid-wood frame parts between 5/8 inch and 7/8 inch thick.
• Use frame members no wider than 2 1/2 inches.
• Use half-lap joints at all four corners.
• Include a rear rabbet sized for the chosen glazing and backing.
• Be sanded through 320 grit.
• Receive an appropriate finish.
• Include appropriate hanging hardware.

Keep the project reasonably small so that you can complete each operation carefully within the available class time.

Start With What You Are Framing

Before cutting frame parts, determine the size of the item you intend to display.

Measure:

• artwork width;
• artwork height;
• glass or acrylic thickness;
• backing thickness; and
• any additional clearance needed for assembly.

The frame opening and rabbet must be designed around these components.

Do not design the frame first and hope the contents fit later.

Prepare the Frame Stock

Mill the stock flat, straight, and square.

The finished thickness should be between:

5/8 inch and 7/8 inch

The finished width should not exceed:

2 1/2 inches

Choose dimensions that look appropriate for the size of the artwork.

Cut the Parts

Prepare the two horizontal and two vertical frame members.

Use accurate ripping and crosscutting procedures.

Make sure:

• matching parts are equal in length;
• ends are square;
• widths are consistent; and
• all four parts are made from properly milled stock.

Machine the Half-Laps

Lay out and cut the half-lap joints at each corner.

Dry-fit the frame.

Before gluing, check:

• joint fit;
• squareness;
• flatness;
• overall outside dimensions; and
• the size of the opening.

Do not proceed until all four corners fit correctly.

Glue-Up

Once the dry fit is satisfactory, glue the frame.

Your instructor will demonstrate the glue-up and clamping method used in class.

During assembly:

1. Apply an appropriate amount of glue to the joint surfaces.
2. Assemble all four corners.
3. Clamp the frame securely.
4. Check the diagonals or use another appropriate method to confirm squareness.
5. Make sure the frame lies flat.
6. Clean excess glue as directed.
7. Allow the adhesive to cure before further machining.

Do not assume that clamps automatically make a frame square.

You must check it.

Cut the Rear Rabbet After Glue-Up

The rabbet that holds the glass or acrylic, artwork, and backing is cut after the frame has been glued together.

This allows the rabbet to continue around the entire inside perimeter of the completed frame.

A rabbeting bit in a router is used to establish the recess.

Your instructor will demonstrate the setup.

How Deep Should the Rabbet Be?

There is no single required rabbet depth.

The depth depends on what must fit inside the frame.

Consider the combined thickness of:

• glass or acrylic;
• artwork or photograph;
• matting, if used;
• backing; and
• any method used to retain the contents.

The rabbet must be deep enough to hold these materials without unnecessarily weakening the frame.

Measure the actual materials you are using.

Do not guess.

Square the Rabbet Corners

A rotating router bit leaves rounded inside corners.

If the glass, acrylic, or backing has square corners, the rounded router corners must be corrected.

Use a sharp chisel to carefully square the corners of the rabbet.

Work from the established routed surfaces.

Remove only the material necessary to create a clean square corner.

Your instructor will demonstrate the technique before you begin.

Optional Edge Profile

A routed profile may be added to the visible edge of the frame.

This is optional.

A profile can:

• soften the edge;
• create a shadow line;
• add visual detail; or
• help establish the character of the frame.

More decoration is not automatically better.

Choose a profile that works with the frame proportions and the artwork being displayed.

Your instructor will demonstrate appropriate router bits and setups.

Sanding

Sand the completed frame through:

320 grit

Pay particular attention to:

• half-lap joints;
• routed profiles;
• inside edges;
• rabbet corners;
• end-grain areas; and
• transitions between surfaces.

Do not sand so aggressively that you destroy the fit or appearance of the joints.

Finish Options

Two basic finish approaches are appropriate for this project.

Oil Finish

You may use the same type of oil finish used on the cutting-board project.

This is simple to apply and emphasizes the natural wood.

Shellac

A shellac finish is another option.

Shellac dries quickly, making it useful for a project that needs to move through finishing within the course schedule.

Your instructor will demonstrate the finish being used and the appropriate application process.

Install the Glazing and Backing

Once the finish has cured sufficiently, assemble the frame with:

• glass or acrylic;
• artwork;
• backing; and
• the appropriate retaining method.

Handle glass carefully and follow your instructor's directions.

Hanging Hardware

Hanging hardware will be provided or demonstrated in class.

The appropriate hardware depends partly on:

• frame size;
• frame weight; and
• orientation.

Install the hardware carefully so the frame hangs securely and level.

Final Check

Before considering the project complete, confirm that:

• the frame is square;
• the half-lap joints fit cleanly;
• the frame lies flat;
• the artwork fits correctly;
• the rabbet is deep enough for all components;
• the rabbet corners are clean;
• the surfaces are sanded through 320 grit;
• the finish is complete; and
• the hanging hardware is securely installed.

A well-made frame should support the work inside it without drawing unnecessary attention away from it.

Check Yourself

1. What determines the overall size of the picture frame?
2. What is the allowable thickness range for the frame stock?
3. What is the maximum width of the frame members?
4. What joint is used at the corners?
5. Why is the rear rabbet cut after glue-up?
6. What determines the required rabbet depth?
7. Why must the routed rabbet corners be squared with a chisel?
8. Is a routed edge profile required?
9. To what grit should the frame be sanded?
10. What two finish options are introduced for this project?