9.3: Blends and Storage of herbs and spices

Herb and Spice Blends

Many cuisines have created recognizable combinations of flavors that are found in a variety of dishes. Although many of these blends are available already prepared for convenience, most can be mixed by the chef as need. (And commercial blends can contain large amounts of salt.) Chinese five-spice powder is a combination of equal parts finely ground Szechuan pepper, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and fennel seeds. This blend is widely used in Chinese and some Vietnamese foods and is excellent with pork and in pates.

Curry powder is a European invention that probably took its name from the Tamil word Kari, meaning "sauce." Created by 19th-century Britons returning from colonial India, it was meant to be the complete spicing for a "curry" dish. There are as many different formulas for curry powder as there are manufacturers, some mild and sweet (Bombay or Chinese style), others hot and pungent (Madras style). Typical ingredients in curry powder are black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, ginger, mace and turmeric.

Fine herbs (Fr. fines herbes) are a combination of parsley, tarragon, chervil and chives widely used in French cuisine. The mixture is available dried, or it can be created from fresh ingredients.

Jamaican jerk seasoning is a powdered or wet mixture used on the Caribbean island of the same name made from a combination of spices that typically includes thyme, ground spices such as allspice, cinnamon, cloves, and ginger as well as onions and garlic. Chicken and pork are typically rubbed or marinated in the blend, then grilled.

Herbes de Provence is a blend of dried herbs commonly grown and used in southern France. Commercial blends usually include thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, basil, fennel seeds, savory, and lavender. The herb blend is used with grilled or roasted meat, fish or chicken; in vegetable dishes; on pizza; and even in steamed rice and yeast breads.

Italian seasoning blend is a commercially pre pared mixture of dried basil, oregano, sage, mar jo ram, rosemary, thyme, savory and other herbs associated with Italian cuisine.

Masala is a flavorful, aromatic blend of roasted and ground spices used in Indian cuisines. A garam masala is a masala made with hot spices (garam means warm or hot). A dry garam masala usually contains peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, turmeric, bay leaves and fennel seeds and is added toward the end of cooking or sprinkled on the food just before service. Adding coconut milk, oil or sometimes tamarind water to a dry garam masala makes a wet garam masala. A wet garam masala is typically added at the start of cooking.

Pickling spice, as with other blends, varies by manufacturer. Most pickling spice blends are based on black peppercorns and red chiles, with some or all of the following added: allspice, cloves, ginger, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, bay leaves and dill. These blends are useful in making cucumber or vegetable pickles as well as in stews and soups.

Quatre-epices, literally "four spices” in French and also the French word for allspice, is a peppery mixture of black peppercorns with lesser amounts of nutmeg, cloves and dried ginger. Sometimes cinnamon or allspice is included. Quatre-epices is used in charcuterie and long-simmered stews.

Ras el hanout is a common Moroccan spice blend varying greatly from supplier to supplier. It typically contains 20 or more spices, such as turmeric, cinnamon, cloves, grains of paradise, coriander, cumin, cardamom, peppercorns, dried chiles, dried flower petals and, allegedly, an aphrodisiac or two. It is sold whole and ground by the cook as necessary to flavor stews, rice, couscous, and game dishes.

Seasoned salts are commercially blended products containing salt and one or more natural flavoring ingredients such as garlic, spices or celery seeds and, often, monosodium glutamate.

Storing Herbs and Spices

Fresh herbs should be kept refrigerated at 34°F-4 0°F (2°C-4 °C). Large bouquets can be stored upright, their leaves loosely covered with plastic wrap and their stems submerged in water. Smaller bunches should be stored loosely covered with a clamp towel. You can dry excess fresh herbs for later use in an electric dehydrator. You can also spread them out on baking sheets in a 100°F (38°C) oven.

Dried herbs and spices should be stored in airtight, opaque containers in a cool, dry place. Avoid light and heat, both of which destroy delicate flavors. If stored properly, dried herbs should last for two to three months.

Using Herbs and Spices

Herbs and spices are a simple, inexpensive way to bring individuality and variety to foods. They add neither fat nor sodium and virtually no calories to foods; most contain only 3 to 10 calories per teaspoon.

Although the flavors and aromas of fresh herbs are generally preferred, dried herbs are widely used because they are readily available and convenient. Use less dried herb than you would fresh herb. The loss of moisture strengthens and concentrates the flavor in dried herbs. In general, use only one-half to one-third as much dried herb as fresh in any given recipe. For example, if a recipe calls for 1-tablespoon of fresh basil, substitute only 1-teaspoon of dried basil. More can usually be added later if necessary. The delicate aroma and flavors of fresh herbs is volatile. Most fresh herbs such as chives, parsley, cilantro, basil and tarragon are best when added at the end of cooking.

Spices are often available whole or ground. Once ground, they lose their flavors rapidly, however. Whole spices should keep their flavors for at least six to nine months if stored properly. Stale spices lose their spicy aroma and develop a bitter or musty aftertaste. Discard them.

Most dried spices need to be added early in order for their flavor to develop during the cooking. Whole spices take the longest; ground spices release their flavor more quickly. In some preparations, Indian curries for example, ground spices are first cooked in oil to release their aromas before being added to a dish. However, some dried spices such as black pepper may become bitter when cooked for an extended period. In uncooked dishes that call for ground spices (for example, salad dressings), the mixture should be allowed to stand for several hours to develop good flavor.

Creating dishes with appealing and complex flavors comes with practice and a solid understanding and appreciation of flavoring ingredients. Although some flavoring combinations are timeless - rosemary with lamb, dill with salmon, nutmeg with spinach, and caraway with rye bread - less common pairings can be equally delicious and far more exciting. Chefs must be willing and able to experiment with new flavors. First, they must become familiar with the distinctive flavors and aromas of a herb, spice, condiment, vinegar or the like.

When experimenting, always bearing in mind the following guidelines:

1. Flavorings should not hide the taste or aroma of the primary ingredient. Balance flavoring combinations so as not to overwhelm the palate.
2. Flavorings should not be used to disguise poor quality or poorly prepared products.
3. Flavorings should be added sparingly when foods are to be cooked over an extended time.
4. When reduced during cooking, flavorings can intensify and overpower the dish.
5. Taste and season foods frequently during cooking.

Even in a well-tested recipe, the quantity of flavorings may need to be adjusted because of a change in brands or the condition of the ingredients. A chef should strive to develop his or her palate to recognize and correct subtle variances as necessary.