1.1: Light Stocks

Stocks

A stock is a flavored liquid. A good stock is the key to a great soup, sauce or braised dish. The French appropriately call a stock fond ("base"), as stocks are the basis for many classic and modern dishes.

Stocks were originally invented to facilitate kitchen organization and to augment integral sauces. Integral sauces are those prepared directly from the juices released by meats and fish during cooking. There are two major difficulties in preparing sauces only with the natural savory elements released in cooking. First, meats and fish rarely supply enough of their own flavorful elements to make enough savory sauce to go around. Second, in a restaurant setting, it is difficult and impractical to prepare an integral sauce for each dish. Because of these problems, chefs developed stocks, which can be made from less-expensive cuts of meat, inexpensive meat trimmings, and bones.

The first stocks were simple broths, by-products of poached meat and fish dishes. Before the method of preparing stocks was refined and systematized, meat was often braised or roasted with a thick slice of ham or veal to give extra body to the sauce.

The challenge to the chef is to get the maximum flavor into a stock with a minimum of expense. A stock made with a large proportion of meat that is then carefully reduced to a light glace will have a magnificent flavor but will be too expensive for most restaurants. For this reason, many chefs have replaced much of the meat in older stock recipes with bones. Although bones can supply gelatin and a minimal amount of savor to a stock, a stock made with bones will never have the depth and flavor of one made with meat.

There are several types of stocks. Although they are all made from a combination of bones, vegetables, seasonings and liquids, each type uses specific procedures to give it distinctive character.

A white stock is made by simmering chicken, veal or beef bones in water with vegetables and seasonings. The stock remains relatively colorless during the cooking process.

A brown stock is made from chicken, veal, beef, or game bones and vegetables, all of which are caramelized before being simmered in water with seasonings. The stock has a rich, dark color.

Both a fish stock and a fumet are made by slowly cooking fish bones, or crustacean shells, and vegetables, without coloring them, then simmering them in water with seasonings for a short time. For a fumet, wine and lemon juice are also added. The resulting stock or fumet is a strongly flavored, relatively colorless liquid.

A court bouillon is made by simmering vegetables and seasonings in water and an acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine. It is used to poach fish or vegetables. The quality of a stock is judged by four characteristics: body, flavor, clarity and color. Body develops when collagen proteins dissolve in protein - based stock. Vegetable stocks have less body than meat stocks because they lack animal p rote in. Flavoring vegetables such as mirepoix: herb sachets and the proper ratios of ingredients to liquid give stocks their flavor. Clarity is achieved by removing impurities during stock making. Any ingredients contribute to a stock's color. Vegetables such as leeks and carrots give white stock a light color. Browned bones and tomato paste provide color to dark stocks. Improper uses of coloring ingredients can overwhelm the color and flavor of a stock.

The term jus traditionally describes the light, natural liquid derived from the drippings of a roast. Because a natural jus is perhaps the most satisfying and flavorful of all sauces, chefs use a variety of techniques to simulate the flavor of a natural jus, using meat trimmings and bones. To prepare a stock with some of the full, natural flavor of a jus, meat trimmings are usually browned and cooked for a short time with a previously made full-flavored stock.

Classic demi-glace is a stock that has been reduced and bound with starch until it has the consistency of a very light syrup or glace. Classic demi-glace is the basis for classic brown sauces. Natural demi-glace, also called coulis, is thickened by reduction or continual remoistening with additional meat; no starch is used in its preparation.

Glaces are stocks that have been slowly cooked down (reduced) to a thick syrup. These are convenient to have on hand in professional kitchens because they keep well and can be added to sauces at the last minute to give a richer flavor, a deeper color, and a smoother texture. Some chefs rely almost entirely on meat glace (glace de viande) for preparing brown sauces.

Essences are extracts made from vegetables and used as last-minute flavorings for sauces; an essence is to a vegetable what a jus is to meat or fish. In classic sauce making, essences are usually used as a final flavoring for more complex stockbased sauces. In most of these situations, essences can be dispensed with and the ingredient itself simply infused in the sauce and strained out at the last minute.

Stocks were originally invented to facilitate kitchen organization and to augment integral sauces. Integral sauces are those prepared directly from the juices that are released by meats and fish during cooking. There are two major difficulties in preparing sauces only with the natural savory elements released in cooking. First, meats and fish rarely supply enough of their own flavorful elements to make enough savory sauce to go around. Second, in a restaurant setting, it is difficult and impractical to prepare an integral sauce for each dish. Because of these problems, chefs developed stocks, which can be made from less-expensive cuts of meat, inexpensive meat trimmings, and bones.

The obvious method for supplying additional savory meat juices or drippings is to prepare extra meat; for example, roast two turkeys to make enough full-flavored gravy for one. This was common in French cooking until the eighteenth century: Extra jus was prepared by roasting meat and squeezing out the juices in a press.

The first stocks were simple broths, by-products of poached meat and fish dishes. Before the method of preparing stocks was refined and systematized, meat was often braised or roasted with a thick slice of ham or veal to give extra body to the sauce.

The challenge to the chef is to get the maximum flavor into a stock with a minimum of expense. A stock made with a large proportion of meat that is then carefully reduced to a light glace will have a magnificent flavor but will be too expensive for most restaurants. For this reason, many chefs have replaced much of the meat in older stock recipes with bones. Although bones can supply gelatin and a minimal amount of savor to a stock, a stock made with bones will never have the depth and flavor of one made with meat.

Much of the expense of using meat in a stock can be defrayed by saving the cooked meat for another use, either to serve in the restaurant or to the staff. Boiled beef can, for instance, be made into excellent salads (with capers, pickles, vinaigrette), into a salade bouchere (made with diced boiled beef, hard-boiled eggs, potatoes, tomatoes, and chopped parsley), and into ravioli filling (seasoned, chopped with a little beef marrow). It can also be reheated in tomato sauce, or cooked in a miroton (baked into a kind of gratin with stewed onions, breadcrumbs, and a little vinegar) with potatoes (hachis parmentier- the meat is minced, covered with mashed potatoes and baked).

Traditional stock recipes divide into white and brown. White stocks are usually prepared by first blanching meat and bones and then moistening them with cold water. Brown stocks are prepared by first browning the meats or bones, either in the oven or on top of the stove. Most of the recipes in this book that use stock call for brown stocks, mainly because they have a richer, more complex flavor.

Improving a Stock's Flavor

Prepare Double and Triple Stocks. Stocks can always be improved by using an already prepared stock to moisten meats for a new batch. When the moistening liquid for a stock is an already prepared stock, the result is called a double stock. If a double stock is in turn used to moisten more meat, the result is a triple stock. The elaborate stocks of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries were made using this method of continuous remoistening with progressively richer and richer stock to prepare coulis and essences.

Making double and triple stocks is expensive. Most methods for making stock are designed to imitate double and triple stocks without the expense. If, however, the chef can defray the cost of the ingredients so that double and triple stocks made with meat can be used for sauce making, the resulting sauces will have an inimitable depth, complexity, and savor.

Caramelize the Ingredients. Stocks can be given heightened color and flavor by first caramelizing the meat juices on the bottom of the pan before the final moistening with water or stock. Precooking the ingredients in this way will also result in a clearer stock.

Add Gelatinous Cuts. Some recipes call for the addition of a veal foot (split and blanched starting in cold water) or strips of pork rind to stocks. These ingredients contribute gelatin and give the stock a smoother, richer texture

Balance the Ingredients. The final decision as to how stocks will be prepared depends on the kitchen's cooking style and budget. The chef will have to rely on experience and expertise to balance the components in the stock to derive the best flavor from the ingredients. If a stock is to be radically reduced for sauce making or if double or triple stocks are being prepared, the chef must determine whether additional vegetables and a second or third bouquet garni are needed. If too many vegetables are added to the preliminary stock or if additional vegetables are added at each stage in the preparation of a double or triple stock, the natural sugars in the vegetables may become too concentrated, and the stock will be too sweet. You may find that as the stock nears completion, one of the vegetables or one of the herbs in the bouquet garni is too assertive; decrease the amount of that ingredient the next time you make the stock.

If a finished stock tastes flat, its flavor can be improved by adding a fresh bouquet garni and some freshly sweated mirepoix vegetables. Whether or not this is necessary depends on how the stock will be used.

PROPER AND IMPROPER PROCEDURES

1. Always moisten stock with cold liquid. If hot water is added to meat, it causes the meat to release soluble proteins (albumin) quickly into the surrounding liquid. These proteins immediately coagulate into very fine particles and cloud the stock. When cold liquid is used and slowly heated, the proteins contained in the meat (or fish) coagulate in larger clumps and float to the top, where they can be skimmed. When adding liquid to an already simmering stock to compensate for evaporation, make sure it is cold.
2. Never allow a stock to boil. As meat and bones cook, they release proteins and fats into the surrounding liquid. Stock should be heated slowly to only a simmer. At a slow simmer, these components appear as scum on top of the stock and can be skimmed. If the stock is boiling, these substances are churned back into the stock and become emulsified. The resulting stock is cloudy and has a dull, muddy, greasy flavor, which will only worsen if the stock is reduced (or bound) for a sauce. When the stock comes to a simmer skim it every 5 to 10 minutes for the first hour with a ladle to prevent fat and scum from working their way back into the stock. As the stock cooks, it needs to be skimmed only every 30 minutes to an hour. Keep the ladle in a container of cold water next to the pot so it is convenient for skimming and so that it does not become caked with fat and scum.
3. Do not use too much liquid. The higher the proportion of solid ingredients to liquid, the more flavorful the stock will be. Many beginning cooks completely cover the solid ingredients with liquid at the beginning of cooking. Because the solid ingredients in a stock settle during cooking, the cook often finds that he or she has added more liquid than necessary and the resulting stock is thin. It is best to use only enough liquid or stock to come three-quarters of the way to the top of the ingredients. The only exceptions to this rule are stocks with extremely long cooking times, where any excess liquid will evaporate anyway.
4. Do not move the contents of the stock during cooking and straining. As stock cooks, albumin and other solids settle along the bottom and sides of the pot. If the stock is disturbed, these solids will break up and cloud the stock. When straining the finished stock, do not press on the ingredients in the strainer; allow enough time for the liquid to drain naturally.
5. Do not over-reduce. Stocks are often reduced to concentrate their flavor and to give them an appetizing, light, syrupy texture. Although reduction is an almost essential technique for converting stocks into sauces, much of the delicacy and flavor of meats is lost if reduced for too long. Many of the flavors contained in stock are aromatic and evaporate when simmered over a pro, longed period, leaving a flat taste. Highly reduced stocks often contain a large concentration of gelatin, which gives them a sticky feeling and texture in the mouth.
6. It is preferable to prepare a double or triple stock rather than to try to reduce a stock to intensify its flavor. The expense will be the same per given quantity of finished stock.
7. Do not add the liaison until all the fat and scum have been carefully skimmed. Traditional recipes often suggest adding a thickener, such as roux, cornstarch, or arrowroot, to stock to thicken it lightly and give it texture. Once starch is added to a stock, any fat emulsified in the liquid will be held in solution by the starch and will become difficult to skim.
8. Store stocks carefully. Warm stock is a perfect medium for bacteria (beef broth was originally used to line petri dishes in laboratories). Avoid keeping stocks between 40° and 140°F (5° and 60°C) for long periods. The danger of spoilage increases in hot weather and when larger amounts of stock are being prepared. A quart or two of stock can be allowed to cool at room temperature before it is refrigerated with little danger of spoilage. Larger amounts of stock are best cooled by floating a container (make sure the bottom is well scrubbed) of ice in the stock to chill it before refrigerating. Large amounts of stock may require several batches of ice.

Ingredients

The basic ingredients of any stock are bones, a vegetable mixture known as a mirepoix, seasonings and water.

Bones

Bones are the most important ingredient; they add flavor, richness and color to the stock. Traditionally, the kitchen or butcher shop saved the clay's bones to make stock. Because many meals and poultry items are now purchased precut, or portioned, food service operations often purchase bones specifically for stock making.

Different bones release their flavor at different rates. Even though the bones are cut into 3- to 4-inch (8- to 10-centimeter) pieces, a stock made entirely of beef and/ or veal bones requires six to eight hours of cooking time, while a stock made entirely from chicken bones requires only five to six hours.

Beef and Veal Bones

The best bones for beef and veal stock come from the younger animals. They contain a higher percentage of cartilage and other connective tissue than do bones from more mature animals. Connective tissue has a high collagen content. Through the cooking process, the collagen is converted into gelatin and water. The gelatin adds richness and body to the finished stock. The best beef and veal bones are back, neck and shank bones, as they have high collagen contents. Beef and veal bones should be cut with a meat saw into small pieces, approximately 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 centimeters) long, so that they can release as much flavor as possible while the stock cooks.

Chicken Bones

The best bones for chicken stock are from the neck and back. If a whole chicken carcass is used, it can be cut up for easier handling.

Fish Bones

The best bones for fish stock are from lean fish such as sole, flounder, whiting or turbot. Bones from fatty fish (for example, salmon, tuna and swordfish) do not produce good stock because of their high fat content and distinctive flavors. The entire fish carcass can be used, but it should be cut up with a cleaver or heavy knife for easy handling and even extraction of flavors. After cutting, the pieces should be rinsed in cold-water to remove blood, loose scales and other impurities.

Other Bones

Lamb, turkey, game and ham bones can also be used for white or brown stocks. Although mixing bones is gene rally acceptable, be careful of blending strongly flavored bones, such as those from lamb or game, with beef, veal or chicken bones. The former's strong flavors may not be appropriate or desirable in the finished product.

Mirepoix

A mirepoix is a mixture of onions, carrots and celery added to a stock to enhance its flavor and aroma. Although chefs differ on the ratio of vegetables, generally a mixture of 50 percent onions, 25 percent carrots and 25 percent celery, by weight, is used. For a brown stock, onionskins may be used to add color. It is not necessa1y to peel the carrots or celery because flavor, not aesthetics, is important.

The size of the mirepoix ‘chop’ is determined by the stock's cooking time: The shorter the cooking time, the smaller the vegetables must be chopped to ensure that all possible flavor is extracted. For white or brown stocks made from beef or veal bones, the vegetables should be coarsely chopped into large, 1- to 2-inch (2.5- to 5-centimeter) pieces. For chicken and fish stocks, the vegetables should be more finely chopped into 1/2-inch (1.2-centimeter) pieces.

White Mirepoix. A white mirepoix is made by replacing the carrots in a standard mirepoix with parsnips and adding mushrooms and leeks. Some chefs prefer to use a white mirepoix when making a white stock, as it produces a lighter product. Sometimes parsnips, mushrooms and leeks arc added to a standard mirepoix for additional flavors.

Seasonings

Principal stock seasonings are peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, parsley stems and, optionally, garlic. These seasonings generally can be left whole. A stock is cooked long enough for all of their flavors to be extracted so there is no reason to chop or grind them. Seasonings generally are added to the stock at the start of cooking. Some chefs do not acid seasonings to beef or veal stock until midway through the cooking process, however, because of the extended cooking times. Seasonings can be added as a sachet d'epices, or a bouquet garni.

Salt. Salt, an otherwise important seasoning, is not added to stock. Because a stock has a variety of uses, it is impossible for the chef to know how much salt to acid when preparing it. If, for example, the stock was seasoned to taste with salt, the chef could not reduce it later; salt is not lost through reduction, and the concentrated product would taste too salty. Similarly, seasoning the stock to taste with salt could prevent the chef from adding other ingredients that are high in salt when finishing a recipe. Unlike many seasonings whose flavors must be incorporated into a product through lengthy cooking periods, salt can be added any time during the cooking process with the same effect.

Principles of Stock Making

The following principles apply to all stocks. You should follow them in order to achieve the highest-quality stocks possible.

• Start the stock in cold water.
• Simmer the stock gently.
• Skim the stock frequently.
• Strain the stock carefully.
• Cool the stock quickly.
• Store the stock properly.
• Degrease the stock.

Start the Stock in Cold Water

The ingredients should always be covered with cold water. When bones are covered with cold water, blood and other impurities dissolve. As the water heats, the impurities coagulate and rise to the surface, where they can be removed easily by skimming. If the bones were covered with hot water, the impurities would coagulate more quickly and remain dispersed in the stock without rising to the surface, making the stock cloudy.

If the water falls below the bones during cooking, add water to cover them. Flavor cannot be extracted from bones not under water, and bones exposed to the air will darken and discolor a white stock.

Simmer the Stock Gently

The stock should be brought to a boil and then reduced to a simmer, a temperature of approximately 185°F (85°C). While simmering, the ingredients release their flavors into the liquid. If kept at a simmer, the liquid will remain clear as it reduces and the stock develops. Never boil a stock for any length of time. Rapid boiling of a stock, even for a few minutes, causes impurities and fats to blend with the liquid, making it cloudy.

Skim the Stock Frequently

A stock should be skimmed often to remove the fat and impurities that rise to the surface during cooking. If they are not removed, they may make the stock cloudy.

Strain the Stock Carefully

Once a stock finishes cooking, the liquid must be separated from the bones, vegetables and other solid ingredients. In order to keep the liquid clear, it is important not to disturb the solid ingredients when removing the liquid. This is easily accomplished if the stock is cooked in a steam kettle or stockpot with a spigot at the bottom.
If the stock is cooked in a standard stockpot, to strain it:

• Skim as much fat and as many impurities from the surface as possible before removing the stockpot from the heat.
• After removing the pot from the heat, carefully ladle the stock from the pot without stirring it.
• Strain the stock through a china cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth.

Cool the Stock Quickly

Most stocks are prepared in large quantities, cooled and held for later use. Great care must be taken when cooling a stock to prevent food-borne illnesses or souring. To cool a stock below the temperature danger zone quickly and safely:

• Keep the stock in a metal container. A plastic container insulates the stock and delays cooling.
• Vent the stockpot in an empty sink by placing it on blocks or a rack. This allows water to circulate on all sides and below the pot when the sink is filled with water.
• Install an overflow pipe in the drain and fill the sink with cold water or a combination of cold water and ice. Make sure that the weight of the stockpot is adequate to keep it from tipping over.
• Let cold water run into the sink and drain out the overflow pipe. Stir the stock frequently to facilitate even, quick cooling.

Ice Paddles. In addition to this venting procedure, cooling wands can be used to speed the cooling of stocks, soups, sauces and other liquids. These wands (also known as ice paddles) are hollow plastic containers that can be filled with water or ice, sealed, and then used to stir and cool liquids. Clean and sanitize the wand after each use to prevent cross-contamination.

Cooling and Handling Stocks (SAFETY). A two-stage cooling method is recommended for keeping stock out of the temperature danger zone. First, cool the stock to 70°F (21°C) within 2 hours and from 70°F to below 41°F (21°F to below 5°C) in an additional 4 hours, for a total of 6 hours. To prevent bacterial growth if these temperatures have not been met, the stock must be reheated to 165°F (74°C) for 15 seconds within 2 hours.

Store the Stock Properly

Once the stock is cooled, transfer it to a sanitized covered container (either plastic or metal) and store it in the refrigerator. As the stock chills, fat rises to its surface and solidifies. If left intact, this layer of fat helps preserve the stock. Stocks can be stored for up to one week under refrigeration or frozen for several months.

Degrease the Stock

Degreasing a stock is simple: When a stock is refrigerated, fat rises to its surface, hardens and is easily lifted or scraped away before the stock is reheated.

White Stock

A white or neutral stock may be made from beef, veal or chicken bones. The finished stock should have a good flavor, good clarity, high gelatin content and little or no color. Veal bones are most often used, but any combination of beef, veal or chicken bones may be used.

Blanching Bones

Chefs disagree on whether the bones for a white stock should be blanched to remove impurities. Some chefs argue that blanching keeps the stock as clear and colorless as possible; others argue that blanching removes nutrients and flavor.

Procedure for Blanching Bones

1. If you choose to blanch the bones:
2. Wash the cut-up bones, place them in a stockpot and cover them with cold water.
3. Bring the water to a boil over high heat.
4. As soon as the water boils, skim the rising impurities. Drain the water from the hones and discard it.
5. Refill the pot with cold water, and proceed with the stock recipe.

White Stock (8:1 Ratio)

Mise en Place

• Cut up and wash bones.
• Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.
• Prepare herb sachet.

Yield: 2 gal. (8 Liters)

• Bones, veal, chicken or beef 16 lb. (7 kg)
• Cold water, 3 gal. (11 lt)
• Mirepoix, 2 lb. (l kg)

Sachet

• Bay leaves, 2 (2)
• Dried thyme, ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Peppercorns, crushed ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Parsley stems, 8 (8)

1. Cut the washed bones into pieces approximately 3-4 inches (8-10 centimeters) long.
2. Place the bones in a stockpot and cover the m with cold water. If blanching, bring the water to a boil, skimming off the scum that rise s to the surface. Drain off the water and the impurities. Then add the 3 gallons (11 liters) cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer.
3. If not blanching the bones, bring the cold water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and skim the scum that forms.
4. Add the mirepoix and sachet to the simmering stock.
5. Continue simmering and skimming the stock for 6 to 8 hours. (If only chicken bones are used, simmer for 3 to 4 hours.)
6. Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Brown Stock

Brown chicken stock is especially useful in kitchens where it is not practical to prepare meat glaces and beef stocks regularly. If the kitchen does not generate enough chicken carcasses for the stock, most wholesale butchers will deliver chicken carcasses at a nominal cost. Stewing hens can also be added to the stock for a fuller flavor, but this of course increases the stock's cost.

Brown chicken stock can be used for deglazing sauté pans and roasting pans and as a base for more concentrated, specialized stocks, such as game or pigeon. It is good to have brown chicken stock on hand to use as a thinner for sauces that may have become too reduced.

Brown Veal Stock. Roast all the ingredients for white veal stock, except the bouquet garni and water, in a 400°F (200°C) oven. Turn the meat, bones, and vegetables from time to time until they are evenly browned. Avoid burning any of the ingredients or letting the juices burn on the bottom of the roasting pan. Transfer the ingredients to a stockpot and add the bouquet garni. Deglaze the roasting pan with water. When all the juices have dissolved, add the deglazing liquid to the ingredients in the stockpot. Moisten, cook, and strain the stock as for white veal stock.

Mise en Place for a Brown Stock

• Cut up and wash bones.
• Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.
• Prepare herb sachet.

A brown stock is made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones. The finished stock should have a good flavor, rich dark brown color, good body and high gelatin content. The primary differences between a brown stock and a white stock are that for a brown stock, the bones and mirepoix are caramelized before being simmered and a tomato product is added. These extra steps provide the finished stock with a rich dark color and a more intense flavor.

Caramelizing

Caramelization is the process of browning the sugars found on the surface of most foods. This gives the stock its characteristic flavor and color.

Procedure for Caramelizing Bones

For caramelizing, do not wash or blanch the bones as this retards browning. To caramelize:

1. Place the cut-up bones in a roasting pan one layer deep. It is better to roast several pans of bones than to overfill one pan.
2. Roast the bones for approximately 1 hour in a hot oven (375°F/190°C). Stirring occasionally, brown the bones thoroughly, but do not allow them to burn.
3. Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot.

Deglazing the Pan

After the bones are caramelized, the excess fat should be removed and reserved for future use. The caramelized and coagulated proteins remaining in the roasting pan are very flavorful. To utilize them, deglaze the pan.

Procedure for Deglazing the Pan

1. Place the pan on the stove over medium heat, and add enough water to cover the bottom of the pan approximately '12 inch (1.2 centimeters) deep.
2. Stir and scrape the pan bottom to dissolve and remove all the caramelized materials while the water heats.
3. Pour the deglazing liquid (also known as the deglazing liquor) over the bones in the stockpot.

Procedure for Caramelizing Mirepoix

1. Add a little of the reserved fat from the roasted bones to the roasting pan after it has been deglazed. (Alternatively, use a pan large enough to contain all the mirepoix comfortably.)
2. Sauté the mirepoix, browning all the vegetables well and evenly without burning them.
3. Add the caramelized mirepoix to the stockpot.
4. Almost any tomato product can be used in a brown stock: fresh tomatoes, canned whole tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, tomato puree or paste. If using a concentrated tomato product such as paste or puree, use approximately half the amount by weight of fresh or canned tomatoes. The tomato product should be added to the stockpot when the mirepoix is added.

Brown Stock Recipe

• Bones, veal, chicken or beef 15 lb. (7 kg)
• Cold water, 3 gal. (11 lt)
• Mirepoix, 2 lb. (l kg)

Sachet

• Bay leaves, 2 (2)
• Dried thyme, ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Peppercorns, crushed ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Garlic cloves, crushed 3 (3)
• Parsley stems, 8 (8)

1. Place the bones in a roasting pan, in one layer and brown in a 375°F (190°) oven. Turn the bones occasionally to brown them evenly.
2. Remove the bones and place them in a stockpot. Pour off the fat from the roasting pan and reserve it.
3. Deglaze the roasting pan with part of the cold water.
4. Add the deglazing liquor and the rest of the cold water to the bones, covering them completely. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.
5. Add a portion of the reserved fat to the roasting pan and sauté the mirepoix until evenly browned. Then add it to the simmering stock.
6. Add the tomato paste and sachet to the stock and continue to simmer for 6 to 8 hours, skimming as necessary.
7. Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Fish Stock and Fish Fumet

A fish stock and a fish fumet are similar and can be used interchangeably in most recipes. Both are clear with a pronounced fish flavor and very light body. A fumet, however, is more strongly flavored and aromatic and contains an acidic ingredient such as white wine and / or lemon juice. Only the bones and heads of lean fish and crustacean shells are used to make fish stock. Oily fish such as mackerel, salmon or tuna are not used as their pronounced flavor would overwhelm the stock.

The fish bones and shells used to make a fish stock or fumet should be washed but never blanched because blanching removes too much flavor. They may be sweated without browning if desired, however. Because of the size and structure of fish bones and crustacean shells, stocks and fumets made from them require much less cooking time than even a chicken stock; 30 to 45 minutes is usually sufficient to extract full flavor. Mirepoix or other vegetables should be cut small so that all of their flavors can be extracted during the short cooking time. The procedure for making a fish stock is very similar to that for making a white stock.

Commercial Bases

Commercially produced flavor (or convenience) bases are widely used in food service operations. They are powdered or paste flavorings added to water to create stocks or, when used in smaller amounts, to enhance the flavor of sauces and soups. These products are also sold as bouillon cubes or granules. Although inferior to well-made stocks, flavor bases do reduce the labor involved in the production of stocks, sauces and soups. Used properly, they also ensure a consistent product. Because bases do not contain gelatin, stocks and sauces made from them do not benefit from reduction. Bases vary greatly in quality and price.

Sodium (salt) is the main ingredient in many bases. Better bases are made primarily of meat, poultry or fish extracts. To judge the quality of a flavor base, prepare it according to package directions and compare the flavor to that of a well-made stock. The flavor base can be improved by adding a mirepoix, standard sachet and a few appropriate bones to the mixture, then simmering for one or two hours. It can then be strained, stored and used like a regular stock. Although convenience bases are widely used in the industry, it is important to remember that even the best base is a poor substitute for a well-made stock.

Fish Stock

Mise en Place

• Wash fish bones or shells.
• Peel and chop onions, carrots celery for mirepoix.
• Prepare herb sachet.

Yield: 1 gal. (4 It)

• Mirepoix, small dice, 1 lb. (450 g)
• Mushroom trimmings, 8 oz. (250 g)
• Clarified butte,r 2 fl. oz. (60ml)
• Fish bones or crustacean shells, 8 lb. (4.5 kg)
• Water, 5 qt. (5 lt)

Sachet

• Bay leaves, 2 (2)
• Dried thyme ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Peppercorns, crushed ¼ tsp. (1 ml)
• Parsley stems, 8 (8)

1. Sweat mirepoix and mushroom trimmings in butter until tender for 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Combine all ingredients except the sachet in a stockpot.
3. Bring to a simmer and skim impurities as necessary.
4. Add the sachet and simmer uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes.
5. Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Fish Fumet

Mise en Place

• Peel onion and chop into small dice.
• Cut up and wash bones.

Yield: 2 gal. (8 Lt)

• Whole butter, 2 oz. (60 g)
• Onions, small dice 1 lb. (500 g)
• Parsley stems, 12 (12)
• Fish bones, 10 lb. (5 kg)
• Dry white wine, 1½ pt. (750 ml)
• Lemon juice, 2 fl. oz. (60 ml)
• Cold water or fish stock, 7 qt. (7 lt)
• Mushroom trimmings, 2 oz. (60 g)
• Fresh thyme ,1 sprig (1 sprig)
• Lemon slices, 10 (10)

1. Melt the butter in a stockpot.
2. Add the onion, parsley stems and fish bones. Cover the pot and sweat the bones over low heat.
3. Sprinkle the bones with the wine and lemon juice.
4. Add the cold water or stock, mushroom trimmings, thyme and lemon slices. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook approximately 30 minutes, skimming frequently.
5. Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Vegetable Stock

A good vegetable stock should be clear and light-colored. Because no animal products are used, it has no gelatin content and little body. A vegetable stock can be used instead of a meat-based stock in most recipes. This substitution is useful when preparing vegetarian dishes or as a lighter, more healthful alternative when preparing sauces and soups. Although almost any combination of vegetables can be used for stock making, more variety is not always better.

Sometimes a vegetable stock made with one or two vegetables that complement the finished dish particularly well will produce better results than a stock made with many vegetables. Strongly favored vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables, spinach and bitter greens, for example, should be avoided when making an all-purpose vegetable stock. Potatoes and other starchy vegetables will cloud the stock and should not be used unless clarity is not a concern.

Vegetable stock can be used to impart a lightness and a delicate aromatic flavor to sauces. In traditional cooking, it was primarily used as a poaching liquid for fish and sometimes calves' brains. Contemporary chefs are using it more frequently in sauce making because of its delicacy, freshness, and ease of preparation. Vegetable stock can also be used instead of water for steaming fish, meats, or vegetables. It is often an excellent substitute for fish stock when good -quality fresh fish or fish bones are unavailable.

Vegetable Stock Recipe

Mise en Place

• Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.
• Clean, peel and chop leeks, garlic cloves, fennel and turnip.
• Wash and dice tomato. Prepare herb sachet.

Yield: l gal. (4 lt)

• Vegetable oil, 2 fl. oz. (60 ml)
• Mirepoix, small dice 1 lb. (900 g)
• Leek, whites and greens, chopped 8 oz. (250 g)
• Garlic cloves, chopped 4 (4)
• Fennel, small dice 4 oz. (120 g)
• Turnip, diced 2 oz. (60 g)
• Tomato, diced 2 oz. (60 g)
• White wine, 8 fl. oz. (250 ml)
• Water, 1 gal. (4 lt)

Sachet

• Bay leaf 1 (1)
• Dried thyme ½ tsp. (2 ml)
• Peppercorns, crushed ¼ tsp. (1 ml)
• Parsley stems 8 (8)

1. Heat the oil. Add the vegetables and sweat for 10 minutes.
2. Add the wine, water and sachet.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes.
4. Strain, cool and refrigerate.

Court Bouillon

A court bouillon though not actually a stock, is prepared in much the same manner as stocks, so it is included here. A court bouillon (French for "short broth ") is a flavored liquid, usually water and wine or vinegar, in which vegetables and seasonings have been simmered to impart their flavors and aromas.

Although the terms court bouillon and nage are often used interchangeably, court bouillon describes a broth from which the vegetables have been strained, whereas a nage is used for serving fish and shellfish a la nage - a style of presentation in which the fish is served surrounded by the poaching liquid containing the vegetables cut in to decorative shapes.

The technique for preparing court bouillon depends on whether the chef wants the vegetables to release all their flavor into the surrounding liquid or prefers them to retain some of their flavor and texture (as in the preparation a la nage). To get the vegetables to release the most flavor into the surrounding liquid, they are best sweated in a small amount of butter before being moistened. They should then be cooked in water alone for at least 15 minutes before any wine or vinegar is added- the acidity in both these liquids prevents the vegetables from cooking completely. When preparing a nage, where the vegetables will be served as an accompaniment, bring the wine and water to a simmer and slide in the chopped and sliced vegetables. There are no hard and fast rules for which and how many vegetables should go into the stock.

This decision depends largely on the final use of the stock. It is practically impossible to add too many onions, leek greens, or fennel, whereas too many carrots can make the stock too sweet, especially if it is going to be reduced for a sauce. The following recipe suggests the usual bouquet gami ingredients, but these too can be altered to give the stock a personal or regional character.

Full-flavored herbs, such as oregano, marjoram, or lavender, should generally be avoided except under special circumstances, for example, for grilled fish surrounded by a court-bouillon -based sauce or steamed crustaceans. Although traditional recipes call for a standard combination of vegetables to arrive at an anonymously flavored vegetable stock, contemporary chefs often prepare court bouillon using only one or two vegetables to give a sauce a particular, subtle flavor. Court bouillon made with leeks or fennel alone will give a delicate yet pronounced character to a sauce. Salt should be added to a vegetable stock only if it is to be used as is, without reduction. If using vegetable stock as an accompaniment to fish or meats cooked a la nage, the vegetables should be cut carefully and evenly. Vegetable stock is best used the day it is made.

• Court bouillon is most commonly used to ‘poach’ foods such as fish and shellfish. Recipes vary depending on the foods to be poached. Although a court bouillon can be made in advance and refrigerated for later use, its simplicity lends itself to fresh preparation whenever needed.

Court Bouillon Recipe

Mise en Place

• Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.
• Crush peppercorns.

Yield: 1 gal. (4 lt)

• Water, 1 gal. (4 lt)
• Vinegar, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml)
• Lemon juice, 2 fl. oz. (60 ml)
• Mirepoix, 1 lb. 6 oz. (650 g)
• Bay leaves, 4 (4)
• Peppercorns, crushed 1 tsp. (8 ml)
• Dried thyme, 1 pinch (1 pinch)
• Parsley stems, 1 bunch (1 bunch)

Nage

An aromatic court bouillon is sometimes served as a light sauce or broth with fish or shellfish. This is known as a nage, and dishes served in this manner are described as a la nage (French for "swimming"). After the fish or shellfish is cooked, additional herbs and aromatic vegetables are added to the cooking liquid, which is then reduced slightly, and strained. Alternatively, the used court bouillon can be strained, chilled, and clarified with egg whites and aromatic vegetables. This is similar to a consommé. Finally, whole butter or cream may be added to a nage for richness.