8.3: Purchasing and Storing Salads

Nutrition

Salad greens are an especially healthful food. Greens contain virtually no fat and few calories and are high in vitamins A and C, iron and fiber. But when greens are garnished with meat and cheese and tossed with a dressing (many of which are oil based), fat and calories are added. In an attempt to maintain the healthful nature of greens, low-fat or fat-free dressings should be available to customers.

Purchasing and Storing Salad Greens

Purchasing

Lettuces are grown in nearly every part of the United States; nearly all types are available year -round. Other important salad greens such as spinach are available all year; many of the specialty greens are seasonal.

Lettuce is generally packed in cases of 24 heads with varying weights. Other salad greens are packed in trays or boxes of various sizes and weights. Because salad greens are simply washed and eaten, it is extremely important that they be as fresh and blemish-free as possible. Try to purchase salad greens daily. All greens should be fresh looking, with no yellowing. Heads should be heavy, with little or no damage to the outer leaves.

Many types of salad greens are available precut and prewashed. These greens are often vacuum pa ked to increase shelf life, although delicate greens are sometimes loosely packaged in 5- to 10-pound (2-to 5-kilogram) boxes. Precut and prewashed greens are relatively expensive, but can reduce labor costs dramatically.

Storing

Although some types of salad greens are hearty enough to keep for a week or more und e r proper conditions, all salad greens are highly perishable. Generally, softer-leaved varieties such as Boston and bibb tend to perish more quickly than the crisper-leaved varieties such as iceberg and romaine. Frequently, greens that have wilted slightly can be revived by soaking them in chilled water for up to an hour. The greens should then be drained and refrigerated until crisp.

Greens should be stored in their original protective cartons in a specifically designated refrigerator. Ideally, greens should be stored at temperatures between 34°F and 38°F (1 °C and 3°C). (Most other vegetables should be stored at warmer temperatures of 40°F to 50°F [4°C to 10°C].) Greens should not be stored with tomatoes, apples or other fruits that emit ethylene gas, which causes greens to wilt and accelerates spoilage.

Do not wash greens until needed as excess water causes them to deteriorate quickly.

Preparing Salad Greens

Unless salad greens are purchased precut and prewashed, they will need to undergo some preparation before service, principally tearing, cutting, washing and drying.

Tearing and Cutting

Some chefs want all salad greens torn by hand. Delicate greens such as butter head and baby lettuces look nicer, and it is less likely they will be bruised if hand-torn. Nevertheless, often it is not practical to hand-tear all greens. It is perfectly acceptable to cut hardy greens with a knife. In addition, it can be more practical to snip small lettuce leaves and fresh herbs with kitchen scissors.

Washing

All lettuces and other salad greens should be washed before use. Even though the y may look clean, greens may harbor hidden insects, sand, soil and pesticides. All greens should be washed after they are torn or cut. Whole heads can be washed by repeatedly clipping them in cold water and allowing them to drain. However, washing whole heads is not recommended because it will not remove anything trapped near the head's center, and water trapped in the leaves can accelerate spoilage.

Drying

Salad greens should be dried after washing. Wet greens do not stay as crisp as thoroughly dried ones. In addition, wet greens tend to repel oil-based dressings and dilute their flavors. Greens may be dried by draining them well in a colander and blotting them with absorbent cloth or paper towels, or, preferably, they can be dried in a salad inner, which uses centrifugal force to remove the water.

Salad Dressings

A dressing is a sauce for a salad. Just as sauces for hot foods should complement rather than mask the flavor of the principal food, the sauce (dressing) for a salad should complement rather than mask the flavors of the other ingredients. Although a great many ingredients ca n be use d to make salad dressings, most are base d on either a mixture of oil and vinegar, called a vinaigrette , or a mayonnaise or other emulsified product.

Vinaigrette-style dressings can be made without oil; creamy dressings similar to mayonnaise-based dressings can be made with sour cream, yogurt or buttermilk instead of mayonnaise. Nevertheless, for all practical purposes these dressings are still prepared like vinaigrettes and mayonnaise-based dressings and they are treated that way here.

Vinaigrette Dressings

The simple vinaigrette also known as basic French dressing is a temporary emulsion of oil and vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper. The standard ratio is three parts oil to one part vinegar. The ratio can vary, however. When using strongly flavored oils, less than three parts oil to one part vinegar generally suffices. In some recipes, all or part of the vinegar is replace d with citrus juice, in which case it may take more than one part vinegar and citrus juice to three parts oil to achieve the proper acidity level. Mild or sweet vinegars such as balsamic may require less oil to balance the flavors in the dressing. The best way to determine the correct ratio of oil to vinegar is to taste the dressing, preferably on the food it will dress.

Oils and vinegars have unique flavors that can be mixed and matched to achieve the correct balance for a particular salad. Olive oil goes well with red wine vinegar; nut oils go well with white wine or sherry vinegars. Neutral-flavored oils such as canola, com or safflower can be mixed with a flavored vinegar.

Oil and vinegar repel each other and will separate almost immediately when mixed. They should be whisked together immediately before use.

Oils

Many types of oil can be used to make salad dressings. Light, neutral-flavored oils such as canola, corn, cottonseed, soybean and safflower are relatively low-priced and used extensively for this purpose. Other oils can be used to add flavor. Olive oil is very popular; both mild -flavored pure olive oil and full-flavored extra virgin o live oil are used. Nut oils such as hazelnut and walnut are expensive, but they add unique and interesting flavors. Infused oils are also popular.

Vinegars

Many different vinegars can be used to make salad dressings. Red wine vinegar is the most common because it is inexpensive and its flavor blends well with many foods. However, other vinegars such as cider, balsamic and white wine are also used. Fruit-flavored vinegars (particularly raspberry) are extremely popular and widely available, as are herb- and garlic-flavored ones.

Flavored vinegars are easy to make. Fruit, herbs or garlic are added to a wine vinegar (either red or white) and left for several days for the flavors to blend. The vinegar is then strained and used as desired. Acidic juices such as lemon, orange, and lime are sometimes substituted for all or part of the vinegar in a salad dressing.

Other Flavoring Ingredients

Herbs, spices, shallots, garlic, mustard and sugar are only a few of the many flavoring ingredients used to enhance a vinaigrette dressing. Items such as herbs, shallots and garlic should be minced or chopped before being added to the dressing. If dried herbs are used, the dressing should rest for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to develop. Other ingredients may be added at any time.

Mayonnaise

Although most food service operations buy commercially made mayonnaise, every chef should know how it is made to more fully understand how to use it and why it reacts the way it does when used. Knowing how to make mayonnaise also allows the chef to create a mayonnaise with the exact flavorings desired.

Mayonnaise is an emulsion. An emulsion, or emulsified sauce, is formed when two liquids that would not ordinarily form a stab le mixture are forced together and held in suspension. To make mayonnaise, oil is whisked together with a very small amount of vinegar. (It is the water in the vin e gar that does not normally mix with oil.) As the oil and vinegar are whisked together, the oil breaks into microscopic droplets that are separated from each other by a thin barrier of vinegar. If left alone, the droplets would quickly regroup, forming a large puddle of oil and a small puddle of vinegar. To prevent the oil droplets from regrouping, an emulsifier is added. For mayonnaise, the emulsifier is lecithin, a protein found in egg yolks. (The acid in the vinegar also helps form the emulsion.) Lecithin has the unique ability to combine with both oil and water. It surrounds the oil droplets, pre venting them from coming in contact with each other and regrouping.

The balance of vinegar, oil, lecithin and agitation (whipping) is crucial to achieve a proper emulsion. The higher the proportion of oil to vinegar, the thicker the sauce will be. The higher the proportion of vinegar to oil, the thinner the sauce will be. (For example, the Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressing on page 882 is a thin emulsion.) Some chefs add 1/2 fluid ounce (15 milliliters) boiling water to each 7 ounces (200 milliliter) finished mayonnaise to help maintain the emulsion.

There is a limit to how much oil each egg yolk can emulsify, however. One yolk contains enough lecithin to emulsify approximately 7 ounces (200 milliliters) of oil. If more than that amount of oi l per egg yolk is added, the sauce will break; that is, the oil and vinegar will separate, and the mayonnaise will become very thin. Often mayonnaise that has broken can be repaired by beating the broken mayonnaise into additional egg yolks or prepared mayonnaise until the emulsion reforms. To repair a broken mayonnaise, slowly beat 7 fluid ounces (210 milliliters) broken mayonnaise into one egg yolk or 4-fluid ounces (120 milliliters) prepared mayonnaise. Adjust the amount of egg yolk or prepared mayonnaise to be used according to the batch that has broken.

Mayonnaise Ingredients

1. A neutral-flavored vegetable oil is most often used for a standard mayonnaise. Other oils are used to contribute their special flavors. For example, olive oil is used to make a strong garlic mayonnaise called aioli.
2. Wine vinegar is used for a standard mayonnaise. Flavored vinegars such as tarragon vinegar are often used to create unique flavors.
3. Seasonings vary according to the intended use but typically include dry mustard, salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Procedure for Preparing Mayonnaise

1. Gather all ingredients and hold at room temperature. Room-temperature ingredients emulsify more easily than cold ones.
2. By hand or in an electric mixer or food processor, w hip the egg yolks on high speed until frothy.
3. Add the seasonings to the yolks and whip to combine. Salt and other seasonings will dissolve or blend more easily when added at this point rather than to the finished mayonnaise.
4. Add a small amount of the liquid (for example, vinegar) from the recipe and whip to combine.
5. With the mixer on high or whisking vigorously by hand, begin to add the oil very slowly until an emulsion forms.
6. After the emulsion forms, the oil can be added a little more quickly but still in a slow, steady stream. The mayonnaise can now be whipped at a slightly slower speed.
7. The mayonnaise will become very thick as more oil is added. A small amount of liquid can be added if it becomes too thick. Alternate between oil and liquid two or three times until all the oil is added and the correct consistency is reached. Import ant: A large egg yolk can emulsify up to 7- fluid ounces (200 milliliters) of oil; adding more oil may cause the mayonnaise to break.
8. Adjust the seasonings and refrigerate immediately.

Mayonnaise-Based Dressings

Mayonnaise-based salad dressings are salad dressings that use mayonnaise as a base, with other ingredients added for flavor, color and texture. These ingredients include dairy products (especially buttermilk and sour cream), vinegar, fruit juice, vegetables (either pureed or minced), tomato paste, garlic, onions, herbs, spices, condiments, capers, anchovies and boiled eggs.

Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressings

An emulsified vinaigrette is a standard vinaigrette dressing emulsified with who le eggs. An emulsified vinaigrette dressing is thinner and lighter than a mayonnaise based dressing and heavier than a basic vinaigrette. Its flavor is similar to a basic vinaigrette, but it will not separate and it clings to greens quite easily.

Procedure for Preparing an Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressing

1. Gather all ingredients and hold at room temperature. Room-temperature ingredients emulsify more easily than cold ones.
2. Whip the eggs until frothy.
3. Add the dry ingredients and any flavorings such as garlic, shallot s and herbs.
4. Add a small amount of the liquid from the recipe and whip to incorporate the ingredients.
5. With the mixer on high or whisking vigorously by hand, begin adding the oil very slowly until the emulsion forms.
6. After the emulsion is formed, acid the oil a little more quickly, but still in a slow, steady stream.
7. Alternate between oil and liquid two or three times until all the oil is added. The dressing should be much thinner than mayonnaise. If it is too thick, it can be thinned with a little water, vinegar or lemon juice. Determine which to use by first tasting the dressing.

Green Salads

Tossed Salads

Tossed salads are made from leafy vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, watercress, arugula or dandelion greens. They may consist only of greens and dressing, or they can be garnished with fruits, vegetables, nuts, or cheese. They can be dressed with many different types of dressings, from a light oil and vinegar to a hearty hot bacon. It is import ant that salad dressings be added at the last possible moment before service. Acidic dressings cause most greens to wilt and become soggy.

Matching Dressings and Salad Greens

There is a simple rule to follow when choosing dressings for salads: The more delicate the texture and flavor of the greens or other ingredients, the lighter and more subtle the dressing should be. Vinaigrette- based dressings are much lighter than mayonnaise -base d or similar dressings and should be use d with butter head lettuces , Mache or other delicate greens. Crisp head lettuce such as iceberg and hardy lettuce such as romaine can stand up to heavier, mayonnaise-based or similar dressings.

Salad Garnishes

It is impossible to make a complete list of the garnishes that can be combined with salad greens for a tossed salad. The following is a partial list:

• Vegetables - nearly any vegetable (raw, blanched or fully cooked) cut into appropriate sizes and uniform shapes
• Fruits - citrus segments, apples or pears; dried fruits such as raisins, currants or apricots
• Meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish - cooked meats and poultry sliced or diced neatly and uniformly; poached, grilled or cured fish, diced or flaked; small, whole cooked shellfish such as shrimp and scallops; lobster or crab sliced, diced or chopped
• Cheeses - grated hard cheeses such as Parmesan, Romano or Asiago; semi-hard cheeses such as Cheddar or Swiss, cut julienne or shredded
• Nuts - nearly any are appropriate, roasted, candied or smoked
• Croutons - assorted breads, seasoned in various ways and toasted

Composed Salads

Composed green salads usually use a green as a base and built by artistically arranging other ingredients on the plate. There are usually four components: the base, body, garnish and dressing.

1. The base is usually a layer of salad greens that line the plate on which the salad will be served. Depending on the desired effect, the leaves can be cupshaped or flat.
2. The body is the main ingredient. It can be lettuce or other greens, or another salad made from cooked or blended ingredients, such as chicken salad or fruit.
3. The garnish is added to the salad for color, texture and flavor. It can be as substantial as a grilled, sliced duck breast or as simple as a sprinkling of chopped herbs; it can be warm or cold. The choice is unlimited, but whatever is used should always complement and balance the flavor of the body.
4. The dressing should complement rather than mask the other flavors in the salad. If the body already contains a dressing, such as a bound salad, additional dressing may not be necessary.

Composed green salads are usually dressed by ladling the dressing over the salad after it is plated. Alternatively, the individual ingredients can be dressed before they are arranged on the plate. A third method that may be limited by the intricacy of the salad but will save precious time during a busy period is to prepare individual salads on a sheet pan. Then, just before service, mist them with dressing using a spray bottle designated for this purpose; then transfer them to chilled plates using a spatula.

Bound Salads

The creative chef can prepare a wide variety of salads by combining cooked meats, poultry, fish, shellfish, potatoes, pasta, grains and /or legumes with a dressing and garnishes. Although the combinations vary greatly, these salads are grouped here because their ingredients are all bound. That is, each salad consists of one or more ingredients held together in a cohesive mass. The binding agent can be either a vinaigrette or a mayonnaise-based or similar dressing. The ingredients should be evenly distributed throughout, and the degree of cohesiveness can range from tightly packed to flaky and easily separated.

The foods that can be used to produce bound salads are so varied that it is impossible to list them all. Generalizing preparation techniques is also very difficult. There are as many ways to prepare a bound salad, as there are ingredients, dressings and garnishes.

Bound salads can be used as the body of a composed salad (for instance, a serving of egg salad on a bed of greens). Some are used in sandwiches but not ordinarily as side dishes - for example, tuna or chicken salad. Some are served as side dishes but not in sandwiches - for example, potato or pasta salad. Follow specific recipes and traditional uses for each salad to build confidence. Then use these skills and imagination for new creations.

Steps for Making Bound Salads

Preparing a salad from cooked foods is a good opportunity to use leftovers, but be sure they are fresh and of good quality. The finished salad can be only as good as each ingredient in the salad.

1. When making a bound salad, choose ingredients whose flavors blend well and complement each other.
2. Choose ingredients for color; a few colorful ingredients will turn a plain salad into a spectacular one.
3. To improve appearance, cut all ingredients the same size.
4. All ingredients should be cut into pieces that are small enough to be eaten easily with a fork.
5. Be sure all meats, poultry, fish and shellfish are properly cooked before using them. Improperly cooked foods can cause food-borne illness and spoilage.
6. Always chill cooked ingredients well before using them. Warm ingredients promote bacterial growth, especially in mayonnaise-based salads.
7. Always use dressings sparingly. They should enhance the flavors of the other salad ingredients, not mask them.

Vegetable Salads

Vegetable salads are made from cooked or raw vegetables or a combination of both. They can be served on buffets, as an appetizer or as a salad course. As with other salads, vegetable salads must successfully combine color, texture and flavor. Some vegetable salads such as coleslaw and carrot-raisin salad are made with mayonnaise. Most, however, are made by either marinating the vegetables or combining them in a vinaigrette dressing.

Almost any vegetable can be success fully marinated. The amount of time depends on the veg tab les and the marinade, but several hours to overnight is usually sufficient for flavors to blend. Soft vegetables such as mushrooms, zucchini and cucumbers can be added directly to a cold marinade. Hard vegetables such as carrots and cauliflower should be blanched in salted water, refreshed, drained and then added to a cold marinade. Carrots, artichokes, mushrooms, cauliflower, zucchini, pearl onions and the like are sometimes simmered quickly in a marinade flavored with lemon juice and olive oil, and then served cold. This style is called a la grecque.

Many marinated salads will last several days under proper refrigeration. As the salads age in the marinade, they will change in appearance and texture. This may or may not be desirable. For example, mushrooms and artichokes become more flavorful, while the acids in the marinade discolor green vegetables. If marina ted salads are prepared in advance, c heck their appearance as well as their seasonings carefully at service time.

Procedure for Preparing Vegetable Salads

1. Gather and wash all vegetables.
2. Trim, cut, shred or otherwise prepare the vegetables as desired or as directed in the recipe.
3. Blanch or cook the vegetables if necessary.
4. Combine the vegetables with the marinade or dressing. Adjust the seasonings.

Fruit Salads

There are so many different fruits with beautiful bright colors and sweet delicious flavors that preparing fruit salads is easy work. Fruit salads are a refreshing addition to buffets and can be served as the first course of a lunch or dinner. A more elaborate fruit salad can be served as a light lunch.

Always prepare fruit salads as close to service time as possible. The flesh of many types of fruit becomes soft and translucent if cut long before service. Other fruits such as apples, bananas and peaches turn brown in a matter of minutes after cutting. If a fruit salad is dressed at all, the dressing is usually sweet and made with honey or yogurt mixed with fruit juices or purees. Alternatively, Grand Marnier, crème de menthe or other liqueurs sprinkled over the salad can serve as a dressing. Fruit salads can be tossed or composed. Either should offer the diner a pleasing blend of colors, shapes, sizes, flavors and textures.

Be Creative with Salads

A salad can be a small part of a meal or the entire meal. There are many styles of salads, and a seemingly endless variety of foods can be used to prepare them. Salads are extremely popular, especially with those interested in lighter dining alternatives. Chefs can tempt these diners by determining the appropriate style of the salads and skillfully combining the main ingredients and dressing to achieve a delicious and appealing balance of colors, textures and flavors.