10.2: Cooking Vegetables

Artichokes

Look for: Tight, small heads without browning or bruising.
Prep: Snip off tough outer leaves; cut off top quarter and trim off woody stem.

• Braise: Heat 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet; add baby artichokes and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add 1 cup each white wine (or dry vermouth) and water and 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or rosemary or tarragon). Bring to a simmer; cover, reduce heat and cook until tender, about 15 minutes.
• Grill: Halve artichokes, scoop out the choke if necessary, then toss with 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Preheat grill. Place the artichokes over direct, medium-high heat and cook, turning once or twice, until tender, about 8 minutes.
• Microwave: Place artichokes in a large glass pie pan or baking dish, add 1/2 cup white wine (or dry vermouth), 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon dried thyme. Cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 8 minutes.
• Steam: Place artichokes in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, about 15 minutes.

Asparagus

Look for: Sturdy spears with tight heads; the cut ends should not look desiccated or woody. Fresh asparagus should snap when bent.
Prep: Trim off stem ends; shave down any woody bits with a vegetable peeler.

• Braise: Place a large skillet over high heat. Add asparagus, 1/2 cup water and a slice of lemon. Cover, bring to a simmer, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes.
• Grill: Preheat grill; lightly oil rack. Place asparagus over direct, medium heat; cook until browned, turning occasionally, about 6 minutes.
• Microwave: Place asparagus on a glass platter or pie pan; add 1/4 cup water, drizzle with 1- teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, and cover tightly. Microwave on High until tender, about 3 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Spread asparagus on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold it in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until wilted and browned, about 10 minutes.

Beets

Look for: Small beets with firm, dark ruby or bright orange skins.
Prep: Peel.

• Microwave: Cut beets into 1/4-inch-thick rings; place in a large glass baking dish or pie pan. Add 1/4 cup water, cover tightly and microwave on High for 10 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut beets into 11/2-inch chunks. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender, about 30 minutes.
• Sauté: Heat 1-tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Grate beets into the pan using the large-hole side of a box grater. Add 1 minced garlic clove. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add 1/3 cup water and bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook until tender, about 8 minutes.
• Steam: Cut beets into quarters. Place in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, about 15 minutes.

Broccoli

Look for: Sturdy, dark-green spears with tight buds, no yellowing and a high floret-to-stem ratio.
Prep: Cut off florets; cut stalks in half lengthwise and then into 1-inch-thick half-moons.

• Microwave: Place stems and florets in a large glass baking dish. Cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 4 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 1-tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender and browned in places, about 10 minutes.
• Steam: Place stems in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water (with 1-tablespoon lemon juice added to it) in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam for 2 minutes. Add florets; cover and continue steaming until tender, about 5 minutes more.

Brussels Sprouts

Look for: Tight, firm, small deep-green heads without yellowed leaves or insect holes. Preferably, the sprouts should still be on the stalk
Prep: Peel off outer leaves; trim stem.

• Braise: Place sprouts and 1 cup dry white wine in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cover and braise until tender, about 7 minutes. Remove sprouts with a slotted spoon; increase heat to high, add 1-teaspoon butter and reduce liquid to a glaze. Pour over sprouts.
• Microwave: Place sprouts in a large glass baking dish. Add 1/4 cup broth (or water), cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 6 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut sprouts in half. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 1-tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until browned and tender, about 20 minutes.
• Steam: Place sprouts in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

Carrots

Look for: Orange, firm spears without any gray, white or desiccated residue on the skin. The greens should preferably still be attached.
Prep: Peel; cut off greens.

• Microwave: Cut carrots into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Place in a large glass baking dish or pie pan. Add 1/4 cup broth (or white wine). Cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 3 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut carrots in half lengthwise then slice into 11/2-inch-long pieces. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.
• Sauté: Cut carrots into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Melt 1-tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add carrots; stir and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add 1-teaspoon sugar; stir until glazed.
• Steam: Cut carrots into 1/8-inch thick rounds. Place in a steamer basket over 1 inch of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam for 4 minutes.

Cauliflower

Look for: Tight white or purple heads without brown or yellow spots; the green leaves at the stem should still be attached firmly to the head, not limp or withered.
Prep: Cut into 1-inch-wide florets; discard core and thick stems.

• Braise: Place florets in a large skillet with 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat, cover and cook until tender, about 4 minutes.
• Microwave: Place florets in a large glass baking dish. Add 1/4 cup dry white wine (or dry vermouth). Cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 4 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Spread florets on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 1-tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.
• Steam: Place florets in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam for 5 minutes.

Corn

Look for: Pale to dark green husks with moist silks; each ear should feel heavy to the hand, the cob filling the husk well.

• Grill: Pull back the husks without removing them; pull out the silks. Replace the husks; soak the ears in water for 20 minutes. Preheat grill. Place corn (in husks) over high heat and grill, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove husks before serving.
• Microwave: Husk corn and cut ears in thirds; place in a large glass baking dish or microwave-safe container. Cover tightly and microwave on High until tender, about 4 minutes.
• Sauté: Remove kernels from cobs. Melt 2 teaspoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add corn kernels; cook, stirring constantly, until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon white-wine vinegar before serving.
• Steam: Husk corn, then break or cut ears in half to fit in a steamer basket. Set over 2 inches of water in a large pot over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, about 4 minutes.

Eggplant

Look for: Smooth, glossy skins without wrinkles or spongy spots; each eggplant should feel heavy for its size.
Prep: Slice into 1/2-inch-thick rounds (peeling is optional).

• Braise: Cut eggplant slices into cubes. Mix with an 8-ounce jar of salsa. Pour into a pan and place over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring often, until thick, about 15 minutes.
• Grill: Preheat grill. Brush eggplant slices lightly with extra-virgin olive oil. Place over medium-high heat and grill, turning once, until browned, about 8 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Brush both sides of eggplant slices with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil and arrange on a baking sheet or pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender, about 15 minutes.
• Sauté: Cut eggplant slices into cubes; mix with 2 teaspoons salt. Let stand for 5 minutes, then blot dry with paper towels. Heat 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the eggplant; cook until tender, stirring often, about 4 minutes.

Fennel

Look for: Small, white, unbruised bulbs with brilliant green stalks and feathery fronds.
Prep: Cut off the stalks and fronds where they meet the bulb, remove any damaged outer layers, cut 1/4 inch off the bottom and remove the core.

• Braise: Slice bulb into 1-inch pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add fennel and 2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed. Cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine (or dry vermouth). Cover, reduce heat and cook until tender, about 15 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Slice bulb into 1/4-inch pieces. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender and beginning to brown, 18 to 20 minutes.
• Steam: Slice bulb into 1-inch pieces. Place in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water (with 1 teaspoon mustard seeds and bay leaves added to it) in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, about 15 minutes.

Green Beans

Look for: Small, thin, firm beans.
Prep: Snip off stem ends.

• Microwave: Place beans in a large glass baking dish. Add 1/4 cup broth (or water). Cover and microwave on High for 4 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Spread beans on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.
• Sauté: Heat 2 teaspoons walnut oil in a large skillet. Add beans; cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes.
• Steam: Place beans in a steamer basket over 1 inch of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam for 5 minutes.

Leeks

Look for: Long, thin stalks that do not bend and are not bruised; the outer layers should not be wrinkly or dried out.
Prep: Trim off the thick green leaves, leaving only the pale green and white parts; pull off damaged outer layers, leaving the root end intact. Split in half lengthwise. Under cold running water, fan out inner layers to rinse out grit and sand.

• Braise: Place leeks in a large skillet with 1/2 cup vegetable (or chicken broth), 1 sprig fresh rosemary (or 6 juniper berries and 6 black peppercorns). Bring to a simmer over high heat. Cover, reduce heat and cook until tender, about 12 minutes. Serve warm or cold with a vinaigrette dressing.
• Grill: Preheat grill. Brush leeks with 1-tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Place over direct, medium heat and grill, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, about 8 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Trim off root ends of leeks, slice in half crosswise and then into 1/4-inch-thick slices lengthwise. Spread on a baking sheet or pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, stirring once halfway through cooking, until browned and tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
• Sauté: Thinly slice leeks into half-moons. Heat 1-tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add leeks; cook, stirring often, until softened and very aromatic, about 5 minutes.

Peas

Look for: If fresh, look for firm, vibrant green pods without blotches and with the stem end still attached.
Prep: If fresh, zip open the hull, using the stem end as a tab. If frozen, do not defrost before using.

• Microwave: Place peas in a glass baking dish or microwave-safe bowl; add 2 tablespoons broth (or unsweetened apple juice). Cover tightly and microwave on High for 2 minutes.
• Sauté: Heat 2 teaspoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add peas; cook, stirring often, until bright green, about 3 minutes.
• Steam: Place peas in a steamer basket over 1 inch of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam for 2 minutes.

Potatoes, red-skinned or yellow-fleshed

Look for: Small potatoes with firm skins that are not loose, papery or bruised.
Prep: Scrub off any dirt (peeling is optional; the skin is fiber-rich and the nutrients are clustered about 1/2 inch below the skin).

• Braise: Cut potatoes into 1/2-inch pieces. Place in a large skillet with 1/2 cup each vegetable broth and nonfat milk and 1 teaspoon butter. Bring to a simmer, cover, reduce heat and cook until tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Halve potatoes then cut into 1/2-inch wedges. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, stirring once halfway through cooking, until crispy and browned on the outside and tender on the inside, 20 to 25 minutes.
• Sauté: Peel potatoes (if desired), then shred using the large-hole side of a box grater. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add potatoes; reduce heat. Cook, pressing down with the back of a wooden spoon, for 6 minutes. Flip the cake over and continue cooking until browned, about 5 minutes more.
• Steam: Place potatoes in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender when pierced with a fork, about 10 minutes.

Spinach & Chard

Look for: Supple, deeply colored leaves without mushy spots.
Prep: Rinse thoroughly to remove sand; remove thick stems and shred leaves into 2-inch chunks. Rinse leaves again but do not dry.

• Braise: Heat 2 teaspoons walnut oil (or canola oil) in a large skillet over medium heat. Add spinach or chard and toss until wilted. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth. Cover, reduce heat and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until liquid is reduced to a glaze. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar (or rice vinegar) over the greens.

Squash

Look for: Green, orange or white varietals with firm, smooth skins and no spongy spots.
Prep: Cut in quarters and scoop out the seeds.

• Braise: Place squash in a pot with 2 cups unsweetened apple juice. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes.
• Microwave: Place squash in a large glass baking dish; add 1/2 cup water. Cover and microwave on High for 15 minutes; let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.

Zucchini Squash

Look for: No breaks, gashes or soft spots; smaller squash (under 8 inches) are sweeter and have fewer seeds; do not peel, but scrub off any dirt.
Prep: Cut off stem ends.

• Grill: Cut squash lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips. Preheat grill; brush strips lightly with 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Place over direct, medium heat; grill, turning once, until marked and lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut squash lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender, about 10 minutes.
• Sauté: Cut squash into 1/4-inch-thick rings. Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 minced garlic clove and squash; cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 7 minutes.
• Steam: Cut squash into 1/2-inch-thick rings. Place in a steamer basket with a small onion, thinly sliced. Place over 1 inch of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cook until tender, about 5 minutes.

Sweet Potatoes

Look for: Taut if papery skins with tapered ends.

• Braise: Peel sweet potatoes and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place in a large skillet with 1 cup vegetable broth, 1 teaspoon honey and 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme. Bring to a simmer over high heat; reduce heat, cover and cook until almost tender, about 15 minutes. Uncover, increase heat and cook until the liquid is reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes.
• Microwaving: Place 2 to 3 medium sweet potatoes in a large glass baking dish; pierce with a knife. Microwave on High until soft, 8 to 12 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Halve sweet potatoes, then slice into 1/2-inch wedges. Spread on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until browned and tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
• Steam: Peel sweet potatoes and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a pot set over high heat. Cover and steam until tender, about 20 minutes.

Turnips

Look for: Smaller turnips with firm, white skins; they should feel heavy to the hand. The greens should preferably still be attached.
Prep: Cut off the root end and the greens; peel, then cut into thin slices.

• Grill: Steam turnip slices (see below) for 5 minutes; meanwhile, preheat grill. Place slices over direct, medium-high heat and grill, turning once, until lightly browned and tender, about 8 minutes.
• Roast: Preheat oven to 500°F. Spread turnip slices on a baking sheet or in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Coat with 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Roast, turning once halfway through cooking, until tender, about 15 minutes.
• Sauté: Cut turnip slices into matchsticks. Heat 1 teaspoon each butter and extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat; add slices and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 12 minutes.
• Steam: Place turnip slices in a steamer basket over 2 inches of water in a large pot set over high heat. Cover and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about 12 minutes.